Selection

Feeding

and

Maintenance

Kobudo weapons

   As a serious practitioner of the art of Ryukyu Kobudo great emphasis should be placed on the correct selection, the proper care and the adequate feeding of your weapons.

CORRECT WEAPON SELECTION

Weapon Size

   The first thing to consider is the correct size of the weapon.  An experienced practitioner should be able to adapt to any size and weight of weapon.  Whereas a beginner should select a weapon that is the correct size and weight for them. A heavy weapon is more beneficial in practice, for an experienced student.  This enables them to swap between weapons for speed and for power.  An adequately sized and weighted weapon makes a world of difference to the student in learning how to properly and safely manipulate the weapon.  Weapons come in four different groups:

     (a)    Long Range Weapons

     (b)    Medium Range Weapons

     (c)     Short Range Weapons

     (d)    A Combination of a, b and c

     The long range weapons include the Bo, Eku, Yari, Nunti Bo, Naginata, Sodegarami and Sasumata. For an adult of average height a Bo of 6 feet (Rokushaku Bo) is the standard length.  Taller Kobudo students may require a longer Bo of up to 7 feet in length.  In medieval British weaponry the Bo equivalent, the Quarterstaff, would have been 1 foot longer that the user.  Children and smaller adults may need a Bo between 5 - 6 feet.  The Eku, an oar type weapon, is more versatile than the Bo but difficult to master.  It should normally reach the ear of the user.  This can be altered for personal preference.  The Yari, Nunti Bo, Naginata, Sodegarami and Sasumata may be any length from 6 - 10 feet.  If in doubt chose a longer weapon.  Generally, the bigger the diameter the heavier the weapon.  Speed is decreased and power increased.  The smaller the diameter the heavier the weapon.  Speed is increased, power and strength may be decreased.  (This depends on the characteristics of the material used).  Bo will normally be between 1¼ and 1¾ inches in diameter.  The smaller the hand the smaller the diameter.  Bo come in two forms.  Straight (Kumi Bo) and tapered.  The tapered Bo will be thick in the middle and taper out towards the ends.  The tapered Bo will move better through the air but may not be as strong as the extremities.  The choice of Bo is up to each individual.

     The medium range weapons include the Sai, Tuifa, Manji Sai, Kama, Nunchaku, Tinbei and Rochin.  The length for the majority of these weapons depends on the length of the forearm.  The handle size depends on the size of the fist of the user.  The Sai, Tuifa, Manji Sai, Kama, Nunchaku and the Rochin should all be long enough to cover the elbow, with room to spare.  All weapons should protect the body.  With the Nunchaku this is not overly important and usually in the UK you can only get "one size fits all."  The Tinbei is just over 1 foot wide and 1½ feet high.

Sai      The index finger should reach just below the pommel.  The hilt should be long enough and wide enough to sit snugly in the hand.  In the UK Sai only seem to come in a standard hilt length.  

Tuifa     The little finger should sit snugly against the body of the Tuifa.  The index finger should be adjacent to the top of the handle with just a little room to spare.  Again the thickness of the handle depends on the size of the user.  Smaller students may need to get the diameter and length of the handle reduced.  Once again the Tuifa in the UK come in standard sizes.  If you're unsure of how to work out the correct size for you see your Sensei for advise.  Badly fitting Tuifa result in poor balance, poor performance, a bad grip and may cause injury.

Nunchaku   The nunchaku handles should be long enough to protect the elbow the connecting rope should be about three fingers wide.  Best quality nunchaku are linked by three strands of rope.

Kama     The thickness of the shaft is the personal preference of the user.  This weapon requires a great deal of skill from the student.  The blades can be extremely sharp and may cause serious injury. Bare blades should be covered or a blunt, practice weapon should be used by beginners.

     The short range weapons include Tekko, Tenchu and Eda.

Tekko/Tenchu     Knuckles come in metal and wood.  This weapon comes in many different designs and sizes.  They should fit the hand comfortably, with little room to spare.

Eda     Pocket sticks can be between 3 - 9 inches long and the diameters vary.

     The range combination weapons include Surujin and Shaken.

Surujin     can be between 6 and 20 feet in length and may be used at all ranges.  This is an advanced weapon.  Great care and caution should be used.

Shaken      come in many shapes and sizes.  Shaken may be used at short range to pierce and stab and at long range as a projectile.

     Best quality weapons can be purchased from sources in Okinawa (Shureido), Japan (Tokaido)  and Canada.  They may be expensive but are worth the extra money.

WOOD SELECTION 

     The most common wood for weapons in the UK is Red Oak.  It is a heavy wood with good shock resistance.  Other suitable woods are Ash (strong and inexpensive), Hickory (very strong), White Oak (good wood but has a tendency to warp and may break), Purple Heart (very strong, good looking and lively to the touch), Kuba (Chinese palm tree).  More exotic woods, such as  Cocobolo, Green Heart, Snake Wood, Ebony and Lignum Vitae (iron wood) may be used but are rare and expensive.  This exotic wood may be used for smaller weapons such as Tanto, Eda.  You should consult the environmental agency before obtaining certain woods.  It's a good idea to have a heavy weapon for contact and practice (this builds endurance and strength) and a light weapon for Kata (speed).

CARE AND FEEDING

     Weapons come in two categories, wood and metal.

Wooden Weapons

Buying     In the UK most weapons are shipped in from Taiwan. Even though the wood itself is not bad in quality you should thoroughly inspect the weapon before buying.

     Always check the following:

     (a)     Appearance.   Look down the full length of the weapon.  Roll it on the floor.  Make sure it rolls true.  Checks all joins Tuifa,                Kama, Rochin, Nunti Bo etc.

     (b)     Wood.     Check the wood for cracks and  splinters.  Also check the wood for areas where cracks may have been filled with resin.

     (c)     "Bendability."     Put some weight on the weapon and bend it slightly. It it breaks it is inferior and may have broken whilst in use        and caused an injury.

Preparing     Most weapons will be unfinished or coated with a sticky varnish.  This leaves the weapon lifeless and difficult to handle.  As soon as possible sand the weapon, using various grades of sandpaper - coarse to fine depending on the condition of the weapon.  A good quality steel wool may also be used.  Be sure to rotate the weapon and change the length of the strokes so that the sanding is equal.  Any imperfections in the grain may be filled with a good quality filler.  "Imperfections!" Not cracks or splits.

Feeding     Once the weapon is prepared it should be cleaned with a "Tack Cloth" to remove any dust particles left over from sanding.  Apply Boiled Linseed Oil, Danish Oil, Tung Oil or equivalent wood nourisher to a rag and rub into the wood.  Leave for 10 to 15 minutes and wipe away any surplus oil.  Leave to stand overnight.  Alternatively weapons can be left in a specially constructed weapons bath and left for a few days, allowing the weapon to be nourished.  The grain in the wood should now stand out and the weapon should be alive in the hands.

Maintenance     Wooden weapons tend to dry out very quickly, especially in todays centrally heated environments.  So, every weapon should be looked after correctly.  Every 6 to 10 weeks lightly rub the weapon with a light grade sandpaper or steel wool and re-apply the oil or leave in the weapons bath for a few days. Before and after using the weapon wipe it down with a clean cloth.  This removes any dirt or oils.  Every weapon should have it's own bag for protection, security and for carriage.  This will keep them safe and protect them for contamination.  Bo should be laid flat, stored in a purpose built vertical Bo rack or suspended in it's carry case.  Bo should never be lent against a wall.  This will cause it to warp.  Care of weapons is very important especially after use outdoors.  Beach training can ruin your weapons, salt and sand can be damaging.  Always clean, sand and nourish weapons after this type of training.

Metal Weapons

Buying     Once again always check the weapon for damage before purchase.  Nicks in blades, damaged, warped, unravelled handles.  Check the size and design of the weapon is correct.  It may be round, hexagonal, octagonal, chrome, stainless steel or natural.  Make sure all parts are attached securely.  Make sure that the weapon is the correct size for you.  If you're unsure get advise from your Sensei first.

Preparing     Little in preparation should be needed.  With Kama the wooden shaft should be treated as with wooden weapons.  A very light coat of vegetable oil, or equivalent, may be applied to Kama and natural Sai blades.  Do not get any oil on Sai handles or Kama shafts.

Maintenance     Again each weapon should have it's own carry case.  This will keep it clean and protect it from nicks and knocks.  It will also stop it from damaging any other weapons.  The grip on the Sai will require maintenance periodically.  You may also customize with your own grips. Special leather or cord may be used to replace the standard covering.  Remember how the grip was removed so that you can replace it correctly. Check the blades of the Kama for damage, before and after training.  Make sure that the blade is firmly attached to the shaft.  If the weapon is damaged do not use it.  The grip on the Tekko may be adjusted by using different types of binding.

All weapons should be inspected thoroughly for damage, before and after use.  If a weapon is damaged, or in need of repair, it should not be used until it is repaired properly or replaced.  Make shift repairs, tape etc is not acceptable and should never be used.

TRANSPORTATION

     Weapons should always be transported in their own individual carry bags.  They should always be transported in the boot of the car.  Not on the back seat in plain view, covered or uncovered.  They will be classified as dangerous weapons by the Police.  Always have your Kobudo/Karate Licence and Record Book with you.  If travelling abroad try to secure your weapons in rigid containers if possible.  Bo can be transported in rigid cases such as cardboard tubes or PVC piping.  If this is not possible carry two or three Bo together in the same case.  Security will not allow you to take any kind of weapon as hand luggage on to the aeroplane.

Hopefully this information will have been of some little help in the obtaining and maintenance of your Kobudo weapons.  If any further information is required I can be contacted:  

shihan@taifukobudo.org